Lekker langzaam over de Mekong rivier

Zondag 6 januari

Na het heerlijke ontbijt zijn we met onze backpacks naar de grenspost gelopen en nog snel even onze departure cards ingevuld. De douanier had opmerkingen over onze schrijfstijl en vond dat de letters niet in capital letters waren geschreven. Lekker belangrijk dachten we… Na het ontvangen van de paspoorten zijn we met een boot de Mekong rivier overgestoken om vervolgens op Laos grondgebied een visa aan te vragen. Na de formuleren en onze paspoorten weer ingeleverd te hebben gaf de douanier in Laos aan dat zijn Thaise collega “vergeten” was om een stempel in het paspoort te vermelden die impliceert dat we het land hebben verlaten. Kortom, we mochten weer de Mekong over (weer 2x betalen voor de overtocht) om een stempel te halen. Gelukkig konden we even afkoelen voordat we de douanier in kwestie weer voor ons zagen en meneer vriendelijk verzochten om alsnog een stempel in het paspoort aan te brengen. Hup weer de Mekong over en nu was gelukkig alles in orde, op naar het boeken van de slow boat. Voor 800 baht konden we een kaartje kopen. Behoorlijk prijzig maar volgens alle guides zeker waard en veel veiliger dan het snelle speedboat alternatief (klein bootje, die binnen 6 uur op de plaats van bestemming is, ontzettend oncomfortabel zitten en heel veel herrie). We hadden wat tijd voordat de slow boat vertrok en kochten nog wat fruit en kussens want we hoorden dat de zitplekken bestaan uit houten banken. Niet erg comfortabel dus. Onderweg kwamen we Andreas (Duitser) en Raphael (Zwitser) tegen die elkaar weer onderweg waren tegengekomen en nu met elkaar optrokken. Met hen zijn we de slow boat ingegaan en hebben onze plaatsen ingenomen op een van de houten bankjes. De sfeer zat er goed in zowel door de fantastische uitzichten als door de grappen en grollen van ons reisgenootschap.

Drukte in de boot

In de middag hadden we trek in een biertje en Martijn ging ervoor. De vrouw verkocht bier in blik en bier in halve liter flessen van het merk BeerLao. Martijn vondt het wijs om rustig te beginnen en vroeg de prijs van 2 blikken. Het  bleek 60 baht per blik te kosten erg duur voor lokale prijzen. Martijn vroeg gelijk wat die halve liters dan wel niet kosten, bleken ze ook 60 baht per fles te zijn. Zo zaten we even later aan onze halve liters, de sfeer was dus optimaal! Na onze eerste halve liters gedronken te hebben op de veel te krappe houten bankjes (uit de zon en in de wind brrr) had Raphael het idee om op het dak te gaan zitten met een nieuwe fles. Al snel zaten we met zn vieren op een matras op het dak van de boot: wat een leven! GENIETEN!! Hier waren de uitzichten nog mooier en we voelden ons de koning te rijk. De koning te rijk op de boot (dat uitzicht!)

Na een paar uurtjes werd het echter wat te druk en werd iedereen ivm de stroming vriendelijk verzocht weer beneden plaats te nemen. Na een aantal uur kwamen we aan in Pakbeng. Een dorp halverwege Luang Prabang. Hier bleven we overnachten, maar eerst moest de bagage van de boot af. Aangezien het al donker was ging dit zeer chaotisch en menig toerist werd pisnijdig. Martijn ging de backpacks met de hoofdlamp van Carolien (voorbereiding ;-) zoeken in de boot en al snel kwam hij met de tasjes terug. Boven aan de trap aangekomen werd ons een kamer in een guesthouse aangeboden voor 150 baht met aparte badkamer en hete douche. We gingen met haar mee om te kijken. Aangekomen bij het guesthouse hebben we de spullen gedropt en zijn we snel wat gaan eten, nog geen Lao food maar een lekkere Indiase Tikka Massala en naan brood. Tot onze verbazing zat het restaurant vol met Nederlanders, dat maak je niet vaak mee. Met onze buikjes gevuld zijn we heerlijk naar bed gegaan. Omstreeks half drie s’nachts werden we luidruchtig wakker gemaakt… Kukeleku! be back! (lees : I’ll be back) de haan was terug van weg geweest en zou die nacht niet meer ophouden. Wat is dat toch met die hanen? Komt het omdat we in het land van de kippen (valuta) zijn of gaan we dit in heel Azie meemaken? Later vonden ook een hoop andere dieren dat ze de haan in zijn concert moesten vergezellen. Geen goede nachtrust gehad dus.. Maandag 7 januariHet was zaak om vroeg weer de boot te pakken om zo een zitplaats te bemachtigen. Bij aankomst bleek het een andere iets kleinere boot te zijn dan de vorige dag en deze zat al aardig vol. Ernaast lag een veel mooiere en luxere boot en de discussie was op al gang of deze ook zou vertrekken. De persoon voor Carolien was nog maar net in de eerste boot toen de de loopplank plotseling in het water viel. Nu was er nog maar een boot bereikbaar (de luxe met ‘autostoelen’) en doordat Martijn en de Australier waarmee we op waren gelopen deze boot gelijk betraden werd besloten dat wij deze zouden nemen. We namen natuurlijk de beste plaatsen in gebruik. Het duurde zolang voordat ze de loopplank weer op zijn plaats terug hadden gezet dat de volgende passagiers ons gelijk volgden en ook de mensen die al op de andere boot zaten kwamen snel naar die van ons. Sommigen van ons konden het nog niet geloven en hielden nog een slag om de arm, zo’n luxe boot in vergelijking met die van de vorige dag, het was bijna te mooi om waar te zijn. De luxe boot!Zonsondergang naast de luxe boot

Er werden wedjes gelegd over wanneer de boot zou vertrekken (hij ging gisteren 1 uur te laat) en er werd hete koffie geserveerd. De tekenen waren goed! Toen de koppen waren geteld, ging de motor aan en na een tijdje warmdraaien vertrokken we. Maar wat gebeurde er nu? We gingen de verkeerde kant op! De kant waar we de vorige dag vandaan waren gekomen.. Gelukkig niks aan de hand, de boot moest nog even keren. We zaten heerlijk en konden ons geluk bijna niet geloven. Zo konden we het wel zeven uur volhouden! In het begin was het nog erg fris en onze windjacks kwamen voor het eerst deze reis uit de tas. Later kwam de zon door en ging het dak open (wauw!) en was het helemaal optimaal genieten. Tegenover ons zaten twee Nederlandse meiden die allebei al in Vietnam hadden gereisd. Martijn vroeg wat ze van het land vonden en noteerde een aantal bezienswaardigheden en activiteiten.

In Luang Prabang aangekomen zijn we op zoek gegaan naar een guesthouse. Onze roughguide gaf aan dat de heritage guesthouse de “best buy in town” was. Ze vroegen 10 US dollars voor een kamer die er naar onze mening het zeker niet waard was. Na soortgelijke guesthouses gevonden te hebben kwamen we bij Villa Philaylack aan. Hier vroegen ze 13 US dollars (9 euro) voor een kamer. Vrij prijzig maar het zag er qua prijs/kwaliteit verhouding goed uit. Eindelijk hadden we een kamer! Even omkleden en gauw wat te eten zoeken. We gingen deze keer voor echte Laos gerechten, best lekker. Daarna nog even een bakje thee met sweet cake (we kregen een bananenpannenkoek, ook lekker). En na een grondige voorselectie van de foto’s lekker op tijd naar bed. Het grappige is dat we constant mensen van de boot tegenkwamen.

208 Reacties to “Lekker langzaam over de Mekong rivier”

  1. Wauw!! Wat een prachtig avontuur, mooie foto’s en heerlijke maaltijden, en niet te vergeten die bananentaart en dat allemaal voor prijzen waarvan je wel een paar jaar kan genieten!!

    Elke dag is weer een verrassing, ineens een club hollanders…nou dan kunnen jullie er wel weer even tegen..prachtige boottochten…en een veilige aankomst in Luang Prabang.

    Martijn, met dat koppie van je kun je ook wel even proberen hoe je het als boeddhistische monnik bevalt…

    Veel plezier weer en een dikke knuffel allebei!

    Mam.

  2. He gastuh,

    Ziet er weer goed uit zeg!!!!
    Op het dak van de slowboat is zeker het echte leven, wijs hoor.
    Gelukkig dat de boot van de dag daarna, de goede kant op ging…
    (ik zag mijn geest al dwalen…weer heen en terug….)

    Grappig dat je eigenlijk nu pas zoveel Nederlanders hebt gezien (toch niet te toeristisch hoop ik…)

    Wat heb jij toch een handige man Carolien…. Hoofdlamp op en hij heeft de tassen gevonden… meestal is het andersom….
    Wederom complimenten voor de goeie voorbereiding.

    xxxxxxx smeer

  3. Hey KANJERS! :-)

    Mooie verhalen weer! Hey, ik heb vrij kunnen vragen voor Juni wat betekent dat 09 of wellicht de dag ervoor naar Shanghai kom!!

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