Hoi an: Maatpakkenmekka en brownieparadijs…

Dinsdag 5 februari
Hoi An is een supermooi stadje met prachtige oude koopmanshuizen in een combinatie van de Franse en Chinese stijl. Verlicht door sfeervolle stoffen lantaarns in allerlei kleuren maar natuurlijk vooral rode. Het is klein en overzichtelijk, gelegen aan zowel een rivier als de zee. Er is een levendige vis- en fruitmarkt en de tijd lijkt hier een beetje te hebben stilgestaan. Het stadje zit overvol met winkels die maatkleding maken. De meeste gaan echter een tijdje dicht in verband met Tet: het Vietnamese nieuwjaar. Vanwege dit feest hangen er overal nog merry christmas and happy newyear stickers en posters, staan er her en der kerstbomen en hangt er kerstversiering.  Ondanks de voorspellingen op de Nederlandse sites is het hier niet zonnig. Gelukkig is het wel weer wat warmer en het belangrijkste: geen regen. Het sfeertje is vergelijkbaar met Luang Prabang. Allemaal eettentjes die op westerlingen gericht zijn, bakkerijtjes die de lekkerste dingen maken (beter dan in Europa, ok misschien kunnen de Fransen eraan tippen) en winkeltjes die van alles verkopen: lampen, schilderijen, allerlei lakwerk maar ook handgemaakte schoenen. Als het weer lekker zonnig is (niet zoals nu in de wintertijd) is er ook nog een strand op 3 km. afstand. Daarnaast hebben we een fijne hotelkamer vlakbij het centrum met heet water en star movies (ons favoriete filmkanaal in Azie). Kortom een ideale stad om even te verblijven en het Vietnamese nieuwjaar te vieren.  De eerste avond eten we bij yellow star, een gezellig tentje vlakbij de rivier waar we door een stel lieve meiden geholpen worden. Na het eten ontdekken we een bakkerijtje wat onze favoriet zal worden gedurende ons verblijf in Hoi An: Cargo club. Een tent die duidelijk geinspireerd is door de Franse keuken der lekkernijen met echte ham/kaas croissants, chocolademousetaart(!) en de lekkerste brownies die we ooit geproefd hebben. We kopen een brownie (die zo groot is dat we hem in tweeen laten delen) en delen al gauw een gelukzalige blik met elkaar, wow wat is dat lekker! Er zijn rond de rivier een aantal optredens aan de gang en we lopen erheen om het te bekijken. Als we teruglopen worden we aangesproken door een Vietnamese man die ons uitnodigt Tet met hem, zijn vrouw en zijn 17 jarige zoon te komen vieren. Hij is leraar en tijdens het kletsen merkt hij op dat het salaris erg laag is. Hij wil met ons afspreken voor het postkantoor dus lopen we daarheen, zij het enigzins met een omweg. Later vervolgen we alleen weer de weg terug en zien we nog een levendige bloemenmarkt (waarvan de bloemen na aankoop weer kunstig op brommers worden getuigd). Iedereen haalt verse bloemen in huis voor Tet.Mooie sfeertje met Vietnamese vlagHoi an aan de rivierMooie rij tandenCommunistische propagandaSuperbono, zoals we hem in een cafe vondenVietnamese markt in al haar glorieWoensdag 6 februari
De volgende ochtend bespreken we het voorstel van de man met elkaar en besluiten we dat we het niet gaan doen. Ons vertrouwen in de Vietnamezen is danig geschaad na het bus-incident, tel daarbij op dat de route vreemd was, hij ons leek op te wachten om een gesprek aan te knopen en hij noemde dat hij niet veel geld verdiende als leraar en je hebt de conclusie. Later hebben we nog aan meerdere Vietnamezen gevraagd of het een gewoonte was om buitenlandse mensen uit te nodigen voor Tet. Hierop antwoorden de meesten dat het geen gewoonte was maar ook geen kwaad kon. Het voelde niet goed dus we deden het niet. Na het eten hadden we zin om nog even wat te drinken, om middernacht zou het vuurwerk losbarsten dus we hadden nog wat tijd te vullen. We zagen ergens een advertentie staan voor versgetapt bier voor maar 3000 dong (20 cent) en we besloten daar binnen te lopen. Tot onze verbazing bleek Lotte (die we kennen van het bus avontuur) daar te zitten met de vriendin waar ze in Hanoi mee afgesproken had en een Ier. Zij hadden net hun eten besteld bij de assertieve maar charmante bediening en wij schoven aan. Gezellig bijgekletst en afgesproken elkaar later weer te treffen voor het vuurwerk. Nadat ze zo enthousiast en verlekkerd waren geworden van onze verhalen over een toetje bij de cargo club scheiden onze wegen en gingen wij aan het riviertje zitten. Op de rivier dobberde allemaal bootjes die kleine bootjes van gekleurd papier met brandende kaarsen het water in lieten. Een heel sfeervol gezicht. Na nog wat rondlopen was het dan eindelijk tijd voor het vuurwerk en dat was alles wat je ervan mag verwachten in een aziatisch land. Het hield maar niet op en af en toe leek het of ze alles maar tegelijk de lucht inknalden. Bij bijzondere knallers schreeuwde de menigte het uit. Bijzonder om mee te maken. Na iedereen een gelukkig nieuwjaar te hebben gewenst: Chuc Mung Nam Moy, was het tijd om naar bed te gaan. We liggen de laatste paar maanden zo op tijd in bed dat we helemaal moeite hebben met opblijven tot 1:30(?!). Daar zullen we in Australie aan gaan werken ;-).   De drakendans tijdens TetDe sfeervolle lantaarnsEven chillen aan de rivierVrijdag 8 februari
Eindelijk is het zover, het shoppen kan beginnen! De eerste dagen waren er een hoop winkels dicht vanwege Tet. We keken dus wat rond maar kopen nog niks en genieten van dit mooie stadje. Ok dat is niet helemaal waar Carolien had haar oog op een jasje en jurkje laten vallen die al op maat werden gemaakt. We probeerden er alvast achter te komen (via internet en gewoon door rond te kijken) wat goede kleermakers zijn. Uiteindelijk zien we tijdens ons ontbijt dat de familie van A Dong silk zeer goed in het pak zit en ook de naaikamers ernaast zien er professioneel uit. Als we binnen kijken vallen de prijzen ons wat tegen dus besluiten we nog even verder te kijken. Helaas vinden we nergens dezelfde afwerking en collectie stoffen als bij A Dong. Uiteindelijk komen we daar terecht en is Martijn al druk met het uitzoeken van mooie stoffen voor zijn pakken en overhemden. Wat een luxe, echt alles kies je zelf uit: welke kraag, welke kleur en stof voering, wel of geen manchetten, wat voor zakken, wel of geen zakken in je broek, een gekleurde bies, split in de jurk en ga zo maar door. Van een aantal lappen, tekeningen en maten hangen er straks gewoon prachtige kleren. Carolien gaat ook aan de slag en pakt het groots aan, ze heeft ook wat ideeen en eigen ontwerpen en samen met de kleedster worden het uiteindelijk tekeningen. Dan de stoffen uitzoeken, er moeten veel keuzes gemaakt worden… Soms moeilijk maar ook wel weer heel erg leuk. Uiteindelijk doen we er nog allebei een mooie jas bij en gaan we er blij en voldaan vandoor. Over 3 dagen mogen we terugkomen om alles te passen. 2 dagen later wordt Carolien wakker gehouden door bepaalde ideeen voor nog meer kledingstukken. Ze gaat er vroeg uit en besteld er uiteindelijk nog 4 blouses en 2 giletjes bij. In elk land kopen we een bepaald souvenir en in Vietnam wilden we graag mooie stoffen lantaarns kopen. Daarvan worden er in Hoi An een hoop gemaakt dus dat hebben we hier ook gedaan. Nog wat stropdassen erbij en we hadden weer een pakket compleet om naar Nederland te sturen. Het opsturen op het postkantoor was niet niks, er moesten maar liefst 3 formulieren ingevuld worden. Achter het postkantoor bleek een goedkoop internetcafe te zitten met skype. Op de muur stond dat het 3000 dong per uur koste maar uiteraard moesten wij 5000 betalen toen we het vroegen, stelletje naaiers, in verband met het nieuwe jaar, op de muur stond de oude prijs zei ze. Toen we er de volgende dag echter weer waren zat er iemand anders en koste het wel gewoon 3000. Carolien kwam er tijdens het shoppen voor de gilets en blouses achter dat haar creditcard het niet meer deed (?!) even schrikken maar na contact met de Postbank bleek de kaart preventief geblokkeerd te zijn in verband met de vele transacties voor de tickets die we geboekt hadden. Na contact met de Postbank kon de pas gelukkig weer gedeblokkeerd worden. Handig aangezien Carolien haar pinpas er ook al een tijdje mee opgehouden is.
A Dong SilkKies maar uit!Een van de jurkjes…Hier gebeurt het allemaal: het naaiattelier Maandag 10 februari
Om 10 uur moesten we ons bij A Dong melden voor de eerste fitting. Martijn had een paar kleine aanpassingen maar bij Carolien ging alles weer terug naar de tailors. Vrijwel alles was te ruim en moest ingenomen worden. De kleding zag er perfect afgewerkt en erg mooi uit. Wat nog te ruim was beloofde uiteindelijk prachtig te worden. Alles werd net zo vaak aangepast tot het perfect pastte en was het iets te veel ingenomen? Dan werd er weer wat stof bij gedaan. Superprofessioneel dus. De kleedsters werken soms wel 12 uur op een dag en rennen op en neer. Soms moeten ze Engelengeduld hebben omdat iets bijvoorbeeld wel 5 keer terug moet. De ontwerpen van Carolien pakten goed uit en de uitgezochte stoffen pasten goed bij elkaar. Na de eerste paar fittings konden er steeds meer kleren aan het stapeltje ‘winners’ worden toegevoegd. Toen nog de knopen voor de jas uitzoeken (dilemma) maar uiteindelijk kwamen we overal uit en zijn we er ontzettend blij mee. De aankopen en schade op een rij: 

Martijn $650
(390 euro)
2 pakken met extra pantalons
6 overhemden
1 winterjas 

Carolien $1005 (603 euro)
2 pakken met gilets
2 zwarte pantalons
6 overhemden
2 jurkjes
2 blouses
2 jasjes
1 winterjas 

Het scheelt nogal of je de spullen per boot of vliegtuig verstuurd, zowel in tijd (3 weken/4 maanden) als in geld (140 euro/30 euro voor 20 kilo). Maar we hebben voor de zekerheid besloten alles per vliegtuig op te sturen. We gaan dat natuurlijk niet de rest van de reis allemaal meesjouwen :-) maar willen wel dat het allemaal veilig aankomt. Je kunt je hier helemaal verliezen in de vele winkeltjes en mogelijkheden. Ze kunnen dat coole jurkje of jasje dat je ergens in een magazine hebt gezien perfect kopieren en je betaald maar een fractie van de prijs. Naarmate Tet verder achter ons ligt openen er steeds meer winkeltjes en kan je bijvoorbeeld ook schoenen laten maken. Helaas is de kwaliteit daarvan niet best dus dat laten we even zitten. Wat wel grappig was is dat veel winkels de deuren gewoon open hadden staan tijdens Tet en pas als je binnenliep zeiden dat ze gesloten waren. Na de tweede fitting wisten we zeker dat alles op tijd af zou komen en durfden we onze busticktet te bevestigen voor de volgende dag. Maar wat bleek, de bus zat vol en voor de volgende nacht ook. Er was alleen nog plek in de normale bus (dus geen bed). Dan die maar want de dagen in Vietnam raken op en ondanks dat Hoi An een superleuk stadje is met dezelfde sfeer als Luang Prabang hebben we het hier nu wel gezien. Toen we die avond na het eten naar huis liepen zag Carolien een bekend gezicht zitten bij de Treats bar. Het was Brian (waarmee we in Laos 3 dagen vastgezeten hadden en verder waren gereisd zie post: en dan zit je opeens 3 dagen vast). Hij verbleef bij een vriend die een weeshuis in Hoi An runt en zat daar met een Vietnamese vriendin van die vriend. Zij wist ons te vertellen dat de Vietnamese mentaliteit ook onderling heerst en dat zij als representatie van het bedrijf waar ze werkt vaak te maken heeft met (overheids)organisaties die meer geld voor iets vragen dan iets kost omdat het ‘bedrijfstarief’ is. Het was een aardige meid die zelf een hekel heeft aan deze praktijken. Ze stelde voor een t-shirt te laten drukken met daarop in het Vietnamees ‘ik weet wat het echt kost dus reken niks extra!’. We vonden het allemaal een goed idee. We kletsten bij met Brian die als vanouds weer overal het goedkoopste van het goedkoopste aan het onderhandelen was (een erg vermoeiende bezigheid in Vietnam) en net als ons onderweg is naar Ho Chi Minh city. Om 23:15 storten we in (we zijn echt niks meer gewend) en gingen we naar het hotel.  

Dinsdag 11 februari
De laatste dag passen en vrijwel alles was goed. ’s Middags alvast wat inkopen gedaan voor de busreis (fruit). ’s Avonds gegeten bij cafe des Amis een aanbeveling uit de rough guide. Hier eet je wat de pot schaft, er zijn drie opties: zeevruchten, vlees of groenten. Het is een viergangenmenu en vrij prijzig dus we besloten er een voor ons samen te bestellen. Het was heerlijk en meer dan genoeg.
 
De dingen die je allemaal met stokjes kunt doen

Toen we terugliepen naar het centrum kwamen we tot onze nog grotere verbazing Xavier (de Fransman die we voor het eerst tegenkwamen in Thailand) weer tegen! Na een tijd kletsen spraken we af om de volgende dag samen te lunchen.  Woensdag hebben we alle kleding opgestuurd 13 kilo in totaal. Helaas stond Xavier niet bij de Japanse brug (of daar in de buurt) en na een half uur wachten hielden we het voor gezien. Jammer, wie weet komen we hem nog een keer tegen.  Om 18:30 moesten we ons melden bij Hanh Cafe, de plek waar onze open tour bus vertrok. Met bananen, baquettes en brownies waren we klaar voor de lange reis naar Mui Ne! Eerst was het nog de vraag of een een sleeping bus konden krijgen voor de 12 uur durende rit. Dit vanwege de drukte na Tet. Uiteindelijk lukte het ons toch een plekje in de slaapbus te krijgen maar deze plekken waren nog krapper dan de eerste bus. Maar toch relaxter dan een gewone bus. In Na Trang stapten we over op de bus naar Mui Ne: een slaapbus waar we de beste plekken in scoorden. Net voordat de bus vertrok nam de nam van het Hanh Cafe alle kaartjes in, maar dit keer het hele boekje ipv alleen een bonnetje. We vertrokken en iedereen was de rest van zijn kaartjes kwijt. We besloten dat we geen zin hadden om eerst een paar uur te spenderen aan het regelen van een ticket van Mui Ne naar Saigon en vervolgens maar een nachtje in Mui Ne te blijven. Dus weer overstappen en uiteindelijk kwamen we om 20:00, na 24 uur non-stop reizen, in Saigon aan.

233 Reacties to “Hoi an: Maatpakkenmekka en brownieparadijs…”

  1. Heej Carolien en Martijn,
    Wat een mooi verhaal weer zeg! Heb je ook wat brouwnies op gestuurd? En wat bijzonder zeg om een hele collectie kleding te laten maken en op te sturen! En zo goedkoop! En wat jullie hebben aan laten meten is dat niet aan mode onderhevig? Want dan zeggen ze in Zaandam ‘kijk daar lopen twee vietnammezen’ha, ha !!
    Hier schijnt het zonnetje wel volop en vriest het s’nachts licht!
    Morgen zie ik je mams en mir want hebben we een op treen in Purmerutel!
    Liefs en tot jullie volgend avontuur! Ina

  2. Hé hallo lieffies

    Helemaal enig weer. Wat een leuke dingen allemaal, erg grappig dat je ook daar weer ‘bekende’ tegen het lijf loopt.

    Hoe komt het toch dat Martijn minder gekocht heeft dan Carolien? Ik ben heel erg benieuwd hoe alles eruit ziet.
    Moet ik alvast extra hangertjes kopen?

    Net ff lekker gekletst, dat is toch wel heel erg fijn.

    Wat een vervelend volk zijn die vietnamezen, ben je al je kaartjes kwijt. Denk je dat ze wel heel eerlijk jullie spullen zullen opsturen vanaf dat postkantoor?

    Laten we er maar vanuit gaan dat dát helemaal goed komt.

    Lieve schatten, tot spreeks of lees, toedeloe dikke koessies van de Troessie

  3. He modeontwerpers,

    Helemaal geweldig weer jullie verhalen.
    Ongelofelijk gaaf al die kleding. Het jurkje is al echt helemaal super Carolien!
    Ben benieuwd naar de rest van de kleding!

    Hadden ze nog wat stoffen in de aanbieding!!! ( :) )

    Ook ontzettend leuk dat jullie bezoek daar een heuse reunie was!
    De foto’s zijn echt prachtig en zoveel mooie kleuren!

    De foto van onze BONO was wel het klapstuk!!!! HELEMAAL TE GEK!!!!

    Heb je net weer ff aan de telefoon gehad en dat was weer een mooi begin van het weekend!

    P.S bedankt nog voor de tip van dat ene cadeautje…. ;) rem en ik hebben er erg om moeten lachen.

    dikke xxxxxx en tot snel!

  4. Opnieuw enorm genoten…..wat is het toch bijzonder dat jullie steeds opnieuw zo uitgebreid de tijd nemen om verslag te doen van jullie avonturen…filmpjes (deze keer niet) foto’s…ook leuk om jullie samen er weer een keertje op te zien…

    Wat een gevoel moet dat zijn om kleding te laten maken..en het dan ook gewoon meerdere keren terug te geven omdat het niet past (…!….).
    En dan vinden jullie het nog gek dat ze in Vietnam denken dat ze jullie extra geld kunnen vragen….

    Goed trouwens dat jullie niet met die ‘leraar’ mee gegaan zijn…..jullie intuitie ontwikkelt zich razendsnel…
    Er blijken vele varianten op een zelfde thema te zijn…
    De variatie van het innemen van hele bonnenboekjes en dan wegrijden…ja daar is natuurlijk niemand op voorbereid!

    Nog even…en dan arriveren jullie in Maleisië…ik hoop van harte dat jullie daar wat meer kunnen vertrouwen op de eerlijkheid van de mensen.
    Maar…genieten doen jullie toch wel…
    Lieve groet, Hanneke.

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