Het andere China
De laatste stad die we samen met Arjan zouden bezoeken zagen we eerst vanuit de lucht. Toen we na een enigszins turbulente vlucht landen stonden we al snel buiten. Er stonden twee dames die ons maar wat graag hielpen en een jonge politieagent kon door zijn walkietalkie wel een goede taxichauffeur regelen. Na een poging van een andere taxichauffeur (na het nummerbord checken bleek het niet de gevraagde te zijn) kwam de juiste. Het briefje met de naam van het hostel in het Chinees bleef per ongeluk achter bij een van de vriendelijke dames. Na een rit van ongeveer een half uur gaf de taxichauffeur te kennen dat hij ons niet verder kon brengen. Hij regelde wel een andere taxi en zou doorgeven waar we heengingen.. al met al een vreemde situatie waar we met geen mogelijkheid konden checken of hij dat ook wel deed. Ondertussen waren we 90 yuan lichter en ergens in de middle of nowhere (we dachten in de buitenwijken van X’ian, een stad van 5 miljoen). De mannen vertrouwden het allemaal niet en hadden het gevoel opgelicht te worden. Carolien was daar nog niet van overtuigd en wachtte af. De taxi bracht ons uiteindelijk naar X’ian maar het verkeerde hostel.
We belden het hostel en vroegen hen de taxichauffeur te vertellen waar we heen moesten. Het duurde even voordat alles duidelijk was maar de meter ging weer aan en na een wat omslachtige reis waren we er dan eindelijk: Shuyuan hostel. Een superrelaxte plaats met binnentuinen, cafe, bar en wireless internet, wat wil je nog meer. We boekten meteen een tour naar het teracottaleger voor de volgende dag. Jia jia de dame die het ons verkocht zou ook onze guide zijn en vertelde dat we zouden zien hoe het leger gemaakt werd, lunchen bij een bepaald restaurant en naderhand zouden zien hoe zijde gemaakt werd, omdat hier de zijderoute begint.
’s Avonds bezochten we het moslim kwartier en aten lekkere kebab, gekruid brood en maar weer eens aubergine maar deze keer gefrituurd met een lekker beslaglaagje. We kochten nog een paar mooie souvenirs en gingen niet te laat naar bed.
Het Terracotta leger
De eerste keizer van China had nogal wat noten op zijn zang. Hij verenigde het grootste deel van China zodat het voor het eerst een land vormde, voerde een algemene munteenheid in, introduceerde het Chinese schrift en liet het terracotta leger bouwen. Dat zijn de redenen waarom de Chinezen van hem houden en hem een goed man beschouwen. Maar ze zien hem ook als een slechte en psychotische man. Hij liet mensen door vierendelen m.b.v. paarden, martelde op gruwelijke wijze en liet het terracotta leger bouwen. Voor 40 jaar lang liet hij 720.000 boeren (!) en arbeiders gedwongen werken aan het leger en zijn tombe zodat hij na zijn dood beschermd zou zijn. Helaas stierf hij toen het bijna af was, ironisch genoeg, aan kwikvergiftiging dat hij elke dag een beetje innam omdat hij dacht dat hij dan langer zou leven. De tombe is nog steeds dicht omdat hier een zwembad vol met kwik in ligt en iedereen die het probeert te openen sterft. We vertrokken met een redelijk volle bus terwijl Jia Jia ons van alles vertelde over de keizer, het leger en zichzelf en ons aan elkaar voorstelde, wat ze erg leuk deed. We hadden toen nooit verwacht wat voor zaken zich achter de schermen af zouden spelen.
Eerst kwamen we aan bij de enige fabriek die legaal kopieën van het terracotta leger mag produceren (gek voor een land dat geen copyright kent). Er volgde een uitleg over de productie waarna we naar de volgende hal werden meegenomen. Tot zover het terracotta leger, nu volgden ingelegde tafels, beelden, zijden sjaals, tapijten en overal verkopers om je te assisteren bij je aankoop: het opsturen naar huis zat al bij de prijs in.. Hoe bedoel je tourist trap. Dit was een megasouvenirsshop waar je onder het mom van ‘het leger maken’ doorheen werd geloodst. We waren echter in een goede stemming en namen het laconiek op, op naar het echte leger!
Terwijl de bus parkeerde bij het complex van het leger gebeurde er iets eigenaardigs. Jia Jia moest haar guide-kaart verstoppen en net doen alsof ze onze guide niet was anders zou het het hostel geld kosten aan de politie.. We liepen door en gaven onze studentenkaarten voor de korting. Jia Jia had haar kaart inmiddels weer om haar nek en een grote bloem in haar hand zodat we haar konden volgen (als echte toeristen). We keken eerst een film over hoe China een was geworden voor de eerste keer en hoe het legerbakken was gegaan. De legers zijn echt een enorme prestatie, ze bestaan uit mannen van vier verschillende rangen officier, schutter, generaal en ridder. Totaal ….. en allemaal tot in detail beschilderd. Het was nooit de bedoeling dat ze werden gevonden, ze waren namelijk de geheime bescherming van de keizer en bedekt met houten planken, een vezelmat en heel veel aarde. Na een aantal rellen direct na de dood van de keizer waren er een aantal ontdekt en vernield. Daarna werd het vergeten totdat tweeduizend jaar later in 1974 een boer een terracotta hoofd vond tijdens het graven van een waterput. Deze boer leeft nog steeds en was zowaar in het gebouw toen wij er ook waren. We vermoeden dat de vondst hem waarschijnlijk een leven lang gratis toegang, eten en drinken heeft opgeleverd bij het complex.
Na alle hallen te hebben bekeken verzamelden we ons bij de afgesproken plek. Jia Jia was enigszins panisch en telde iedereen constant. Ze had ons in de bus heen al verteld dat ze een net geslaagde tour guide was en dit haar derder tour was. Tijdens haar eerste tour was ze een tourist kwijtgeraakt en zonder deze teruggekomen. Als dat nog een keer zou gebeuren zou dat haar baan kosten dus ze was er erg op … ons allemaal bij elkaar te houden. Eenmaal compleet vroeg ze ons alvast voor het eten te betalen. Op zich een vreemde actie, je kunt prima betalen na het eten. Maar we deden het allemaal maar en hoopten dat het eten goed was.
Het restaurant had ook een grote souvenirafdeling maar niemand benaderde ons om wat te kopen. We liepen meteen door naar de tafels en namen plaats. Er werden warme gerechten gebracht en er was een koud buffet. Het koude buffet was zo goed als op, slechts wat restjes en de warme gerechten hadden ook al een tijdje klaargestaan. De aardappel met caramel was ondertussen zo afgekoeld dat je enkel met brute kracht nog een aardappeltje van het bord afkreeg. Na een verzoek tot iets meer dan restjes kregen we nog wat tomaat en komkommer maar het was allemaal niet om over naar huis te schrijven. Toen we hierna ook nog de silk market bezochten en ook dit een smoes bleek te zijn (niet dat we verrast waren) om ongelooflijk dure zijde artikelen te verkopen waren we wel klaar met deze tour. Toen Jia Jia aan het eind vroeg hoe we het hadden gevonden reageerden we niet al te uitgelaten. Hierna kwam ze onze korting teruggeven en vroeg ze nog even persoonlijk wat er niet had bevallen. Arjan en Martijn zeiden het restaurant slecht te vinden en dat de silk shop geen toegevoegde waarde had of ze dit aan haar baas kon doorgeven, dan kan hij daar misschien wat aan doen. Wat er toen gebeurde hadden we niet verwacht.
Jia Jia richtte zich tot Carolien en begon roodaangelopen en met trillende lip te vertellen over hoe blij ze was dat ze deze baan had. Waarop Carolien zei dat de kritiek allesbehalve persoonlijk was en alleen betrekking op de invulling van de tour had. Uiteindelijk bleek ze erg weinig te verdienen en een baan als guide moeilijk te krijgen, het hostel had een contract met het restaurant en zij had zelf de silk shop als toevoeging uitgekozen. Waarschijnlijk voor een extra zakcentje. Ze gaf Carolien een sleutelhanger en vroeg haar alsjeblieft niks te zeggen. Carolien vertelde op haar beurt dat ze alleen commentaar wilde geven als dit de tour verbeterde en haar baan absoluut niet in gevaar wilde brengen. Ze kon gerust zijn dat we niks zouden zeggen. Dit moest ze een paar keer herhalen om haar gerust te krijgen. Bij het verlaten van de bus beloofde ze ons nog drie gratis koffie. We zeiden dat dat echt niet hoefde (een bribe was genoeg). Binnen aan een lekker koud biertje kwam ze ons het briefje voor de gratis koffie brengen en vroeg ze ons een goed woordje voor haar te doen, bij voorkeur op de website. We kletsten nog wat na met een aantal Zweedse tourgenoten die onder andere een boek hadden gelezen over de Chineze bedrijfscultuur, daarin stond dat er absoluut geen ruimte was voor kritiek naar de baas. Als je die al wilde spreken moest je een afspraak maken van binnenlopen is geen sprake. Al met al een vreemde dag.
De laatste dag samen werd besteed aan mooie souvenirs kopen en ontspannen. Tijdens het souvenirs kopen kwamen we nog een Chinees tegen die zowaar (je gelooft het niet) Duits sprak! Dat leidde tot hilarische Duits/Niederlandisch/Engelse conversaties en uiteindelijk een gaaf souvenir voor iemand van wie de naam een bloem is… Arjan vloog vroeg in de morgen naar Shanghai en het afscheid was niet zo zwaar aangezien we hem over iets meer dan twee weken alweer zien.
Gepost op 8 July 2008 door admin
Geplaatst onder: 9 China
161 Reacties to “Het andere China”
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Hey Kanjers!! ;-D
Ja, jullie hebben het weer mooi verwoord! Echt een mooie tijd gehad met jullie in China…
Ik heb inmiddels weer een closing achter de rug, ik voel de natrillingen nog een beetje.. Afgelopen week 60 uur gedraaid vandaar dat ik nog niet op heb kunnen mailen!
Goed, tot over een week dan maar hé!
Carolien, de kussens kan men beter meenemen ja!
Tot mails/ Bels!
Dikke Ciao
Arjan
Hallo daar lieve schatten
Eerst maar even de gruwel van de laatste foto.
Afschuwelijk!!
Ach gossiepossie die arme Jia Jia, dacht ze bijna haar baantje kwijt te zijn.
Wat een brute mannen zijn die broers.
Maar wel weer een super ervaring en inderdaad wat een prachtig gezicht dat leger.
Oh wat heerlijk met elkaar gesproken vanmiddag, poeh hé, dat is echt super, daar ging ik helemaal zwevend van naar de Deka.
Ben ook al naar Moppie wezen kijken en het is echt een schatje, grijs, hele grote ogen, wit onderkinnetje, witte plek op haar buik en witte pootjes.
Heel sociaal, kwam zelf naar me toe en kan heel hard spinnen.
Wij worden wel vriendinnetjes hoor.
Oh wat heerlijk hè, de dagen tellen we af, tatarataaa nog 17 dagen en dan….. zijn jullie er weer.
Joehoe Jippie tot snel, toedeloe dikke koessies van de Troessie
Ha, nog ff met z’n tweëen!
Net bij Smeer op de koffie geweest en alles staat klaar om morgen te vertrekken naar Spanje en dan over ongeveer een week jullie weer te zien!! Wat kijkt ze er naar uit! En je moessie Troessie ook!!
Prachtig dat leger, ze hebben hier ook een expositie van het leger in Drente!
Ook een gedoe hé met de gids, wat zijn ze bang voor hun baan, nou dat wordt de hele zomer op hun teentjes lopen(als ze die nog hebben) vroeger werden ze ingesnoerd!!
Geniet nog van jullie laatste week en zie nog mooie dingen!!
Lieve groetjes,Ina xxx
He Gastuh!!!!
Nog net ff jullie verslag kunnen lezen….
Ga nu echt slapen morgen gaat de wekker om 6 uur!!!
Dikke doeiiii en tot over……10 dagen!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
xxxxxxx Rem en Mir
Hallo daar…….
Ik heb weer genoten van alle verhalen.
Toch is china wel een heel gaaf land, lijkt me heel mooi om over de chinese muur te wandelen.
Hadden ze er ook babi pangang met kroepoek?
Ik verwacht trouwens ook een reisverslag van jullie als jullie op de camping zitten met Remmert en Vissertje.
Tot over een paar weken.
x Erik en een ferme handdruk voor Martijn
Nog even genieten…wij tellen af….
Drie eyeopeners voor mij wat china betreft…:
- levende vissen in een sleutelhanger (!!)
-een dictator vermomd als leider…(hoezo we leren van het verleden??)
-jia, jia,….het westerse beeld van de top-economie van china verhuld in de versluierde werkelijkheid van de werknemer die in totale paniek schiet bij terechte kritiek op haar werkgever ( die zelf niets verbetert maar haar ontslaat)…waar heb ik dat toch meer gehoord??
Tussen alles in blijft uiteraard de humor overeind..het beste medicijn!! Maar jullie kunnen dan ook terug..met alle bagage van de afgelopen maanden op jullie harde schijf…ben ontzettend benieuwd naar alles waarvan jullie rijker zijn geworden..en hoe je straks met ons daarvan na kunt genieten!!
Zie er naar uit…maar voor nu: goede reis en behouden aankomst in Barcelona, geniet van Marga en Arjan en geef ze een knuffel namens mij hè?
Liefs, Hanneke
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