Jouw reis, niet jouw keuze..
De route
De dagen samen in X’ian werden besteed aan niets doen en daarna de rest van onze reis plannen. Nog 18 dagen in China, wat te doen? Er waren veel opties. Omdat Tibet in de eerste instantie was afgevallen waren we geïnteresseerd geraakt in de zijderoute naar Kashgar. In het westelijkste puntje van China. Na een paar zinderend hete dagen in X’ian waren we ons bewust geworden dat de hitte funest is voor de zin om ook maar iets te ondernemen. Om dan een trip naar de woestijn te doen leek ons daarom toch geen goed idee. Ook hoorden we geruchten dat buitenlanders daar nu niet toegelaten zouden worden in verband met de minderheden daar en de olympische vlam. Dan weer terug naar Tibet. Dit was toevallig de dag voordat we gingen plannen drie maanden weer opengesteld voor buitenlandse toeristen. We probeerden erachter te komen hoe we dan aan een reisdocument (vergunning) konden komen, nodig voor het bezoeken van Tibet. Dit bleek niet zo makkelijk als gedacht. Hier zijn de regels waar je op dit moment aan moet voldoen om Tibet binnen te komen:
1.Je moet 10 dagen van tevoren je vliegreis hebben geboekt
2.Je moet met een groep zijn met mensen van dezelfde nationaliteit
3.Je moet al je accommodaties al hebben geboekt
4.Je moet al precies weten wat je elke dag wilt gaan doen
5.Je moet verplicht, constant en overal een ‘guide’ met je mee laten gaan.
Ze hebben er zeg maar alles aan gedaan om mensen niet binnen te hoeven laten en als je er al komt is er helemaal niks meer aan. Het is zo beveiligd als Noord-Korea en het verbaast ons niks als er niet ook zo’n sfeertje hangt. Weer een bestemming die we konden afstrepen. We doken weer in de rough guide en vonden een supermooi plekje dat de sfeer van Tibet moest benaderen: Xiahe. Een plek aan de rand van het Tibetaanse plateau met prachtige bergen op de achtergrond en een Tibetaans klooster waar veel pelgrims op afkomen.
Deze zijn gekleed in de mooiste kleuren en dit moet samen met de in geitenhuid geklede nomaden uit de omgeving de mooiste plaatjes opleveren. Het grenst aan uitgestrekte heuvel en graslanden waar de nomaden hun paard verhuren voor een uurtje om een lekker stuk te rijden. We zagen het helemaal zitten, hier konden we wel een weekje blijven. Er zaten ook nog eens allemaal leuke tentjes en het was niet ver weg. Het eindplan was: langzaam met de trein terug naar Beijing terwijl we onderweg een aantal interessante plekken bezochten.
Lanzhou
Om in Xiahe te komen moesten we eerst door Lanzhou, daar vertrok de bus naar Xiahe. Een lelijke stad die niet veel te bieden had. Toen we incheckten bij het hotel vroeg de receptioniste wat onze volgende bestemming was. Het prachtige plaatsje Xiahe zeiden wij en ze reageerde met een frons: ze wist niet of dat wel veilig was en misschien was het forbidden. Ze pleegde een telefoontje en kon ons daarna vertellen dat alles ’safe’ was. Top. We liepen het stadje rond en ontspanden op de kamer. We belden voor de zekerheid nog wat hostels. Zodat we alvast een kamer hadden. De Tibetaanse gerunde hostels in de Rough guide moesten super zijn. Alledrie de hostels gaven ons hetzelde antwoord. Ze konden geen buitenlanders laten verblijven. Een gaf aan dat dit om politieke redenen was. Dit vulde het ’safe’ verhaal van de receptioniste in als onder hevige controle.
De volgende ochtend pakten we de taxi naar het busstation. We werden met zeer veel verbazing en verwondering aangekeken. Hier kwamen duidelijk nooit buitenlanders. Na de X-ray liepen we naar het loket. Daar gaven we het briefje met onze bestemming. De dame achter de counter keek ons aan en schudde haar hoofd. No was het antwoord. Waarom niet? Vroegen wij. Ze maakten een gebaar met haar handen naar haar gezicht en wees naar ons. De zaak was duidelijk, we mochten er niet heen omdat we buitenlanders waren. Wat ontzettend frustrerend. We wisten dat er een Tibetaans klooster zat maar niet dat de Chinese overheid zo paranoia was. We kunnen gewoon niet reizen waar we willen.. en dat is frustrerend. Toch moeten we ook niet teveel verwachten van China.
Het is tenslotte nog steeds een staat met 1 partij en hoewel ze aan de buitenkant proberen ruimdenkend en commercieel te zijn, blijkt aan de binnenkant dat ze bang zijn om de controle te verliezen, alles met enigszins risico hermetisch afsluiten en zo bepalen hoe jij moet reizen. We verwachten dat deze aanscherpingen ook te maken met de olympische spelen, de Chinese coming out party, waar zij het koste wat kost goed op willen doen. We waren er helemaal klaar mee en gingen toen meteen door naar de volgende bestemming op het lijstje: Zongwhei. De treinreis was weer ontspannen en we hadden onze favoriete noodles weer ingekocht. Aan boord heb je namelijk altijd heet water om je noedelsoep of eigen theebeker mee te vullen. Zo blijkt maar weer hoe zeer thee geworteld zit in de Chinese cultuur. Onderweg zagen we hele aparte landschappen alsof iemand een plaatje voor de ruit had geplakt.
Net gemist
Toen we in Zongwhei aankwamen hing het vol met gekleurde vlaggetjes en droeg iedereen een I love China T-shirt. Een ’spontane’ massale uiting van vaderlandsliefde? Nee we hadden net de olympysche vlam gemist die dag. Er hing een vrolijke sfeer en de stad was helemaal schoongeveegd. De eerste twee hotels (waarvan er een in de rough guide stond) wilden ons niet laten verblijven. Zij zaten zogenaamd vol, een discrete manier om te laten weten dat ze geen politievergunning hebben om buitenlanders te laten verblijven. Ze verwezen ons door naar het duurdere hotel. Daar wilden we eigenlijk niet verblijven want we reizen toch met een budget. Toen we eenmaal binnenkwamen en in een moeizaam enigszins Engels gesprek duidelijk hadden gemaakt dat we echt niet meer konden betalen dan ¥120 gingen ze akkoord met deze ¥200 lagere prijs. Zo zie je maar: altijd onderhandelen!
Dat we met een kerel en dame in de lobby op de foto waren geweest kan ook geholpen hebben, want later zagen we deze kerel op ingelijste foto’s op andere plekken in het hotel. :-). De volgende dag vertrokken we naar Shapotou. We wilden niet met de taxi maar met de bus en liepen daar de halve stad voor rond. Met veel verbaasde en geamuseerde blikken van de lokale bevolking tot gevolg. Dat je als westerling daar rondloopt is al verrassend maar dan ook nog met een rugtas waar de gemiddelde chinees in past is wel heel apart. Na lang wachten kwam de bus eindelijk en konden we plaatsnemen. Het was een mooi ritje door de suburbs van Zongwhei. Schapen op de weg en schoolkinderen die meereden. Al met al weer mooi om te zien. We ontmoeten nog een Chinees die weer gezellig overtuigd in het Chinees zijn verhaal deed tegen ons en met ons opliep naar de toegangspoort.
Shapotou bleek een echte toeristische plek voor Chinezen, je vindt er geen westerlingen. Het bestaat uit een plekje aan de Yellow river met aan de ene kant een prachtig berglandschap en aan de andere kant een enorme zandduin met daarachter de woestijn. We boekten een kamer in een ouderwets Chinees villacomplex, waar we na onderhandelen en pleidooi over arme studenten ook hier een knap prijsje betaalden. De kamer was een klassiek Chinees plaatje met uitzicht over het water.
Er waren genoeg dingen te doen: raften op een sheepskin vlot (niet gedaan, heel saai, van een kabelbaan naar de overkant van de rivier sjeezen (beetje te duur), en op een houten plank van de duin afglijden. Dat laatste hebben we wel gedaan en dat ging behoorlijk hard! We hebben verder weinig gedaan want we kwamen er voor onze rust (ahum) en de mooie omgeving. Later kwamen we de enthousiaste Chinees uit de bus weer tegen. “Guuuulaaan!” (Holland in het Chinees), kwam hij luid roepend aanlopen, trots liet hij ons de gelamineerde fotoprintjes van zijn acitivteiten van de dag zien, sheepskin raften en natuurlijk naar beneden sjeezen van de kabelbaan. De manier waarop Chinezen de toerist uithangen, tevreden met zijn aandenken ging hij weer naar huis. Eenmaal uitgerust zetten we voet naar Zongwhei om een kaartje voor de trein naar Hohhot te kopen.
Gepost op 10 July 2008 door admin
Geplaatst onder: 9 China
197 Reacties to “Jouw reis, niet jouw keuze..”
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Joehoe lieffies
Jajajajahaah heel mooi die symbolische foto, het eind is echt in zicht.
Nu Smeer en Mr. Cordless de neus van de toettoet richting Spanje laten wijzen…..oeioei.
Vandaag over 2 weken gaat die neus weer deze kant op, ik kan nu al overlopen van geluk met de wetenschap dat jullie in die auto zitten.
Mijn allerlaatste kadootje uit de schatkist mogen uitpakken vanochtend.
Nog 1tje voor Stephan.
Heel erg betuttelend allemaal die Chinezen, volgens mij leven de burgers daar elke dag met angst.
Niet leuk hoor voor die mensen.
Dan zijn wij maar weer bevoorrecht.
Daar mogen we wel eens meer bij stilstaan als je jullie verhaal leest vinden jullie ook niet?
Oh schatten, ik kan er niet over uit dat jullie bijna thuis zijn.
En weet je hoe dat dan is???
Na een paar dagen is dat ook weer zo gewoon alsof jullie niet weg geweest zijn.
Nou ja ik kan nog regels door gaan maar daar zal ik jullie niet verder mee vermoeien hoor.
Nog heel veel plezier, jullie nog lekker onderweg, toedeloe hele dikke koessies van de Troessie
Ha Lieffies,
Joh, wat een apart land is China toch! En dat hebben jullie allemaal mee mogen maken!!
De foto’s zijn weer prachtig! Jullie hotel kamer ziet er heel gezellig uit! En die man op de brommert! Schitterend!
Geniet nog van de laatste dagen en ik denk dat jullie China niet snel zullen vergeten!
O, ja dat is wel ff wat anders van een zandberg af in plaats van sneeuw!!
Liefs van Ina uit een regenachtig Neck!!xxxx
en ik maar denken dat het laatste cadeautje chinese thee zou zijn..maar nee hoor…green teabath&shower gel(!)…ben beniuwd of ik daar fris en fruitig mee uit bad kom als jullie thuis komen…
Gelukkig dat jullie hierna nog even richting Spanje vertrekken, want dit land kan je nou niet het etiket: lest best meegeven, maar dat had ik in mijn vorige mail ook al aangegeven…
Dus geniet nog effe lekker in Spanje en een leuke thuisreis met z’n viertjes!! Big Hug Hanneke
He lieve schatten,
Zit nu in Barcelona bij Arjan in zijn apartement op de bank dit mailtje te typen.
Carolien jij bent even lekker aan het douche en de mannen zijn met zijn 3en pizza aan het halen.
De huisgenoot van Arjan heeft net allemaal lekkere Spaanse hapjes voor ons gemaakt en ik zit daar onderwijl nog lekker
van te smullen.
Het weerzien met jullie was werkelijk onvergetelijk!!!!!
Daar zijn eigelijk geen woorden voor hoe wij ons daar voelde midden op straat in Barcelona.
Wat een blijdschap!!!!
Dat neemt niemand meer van ons weg.
Hoe lang jullie ook zijn weg geweest na die 9 maanden is en voelt het weer als vanouds!!!!
We zijn vandaag heerlijk naar het strand geweest.
The boys komen net binnen en we gaan zo eten!
Rond 9 uur vertrekken we naar onze camping zodat we nog 5 volle dagen met elkaar op vakantie zijn en volop gaan genieten!!!!!
Jullie laatste verslag was weer lek om te lezen en zeker waar ik nu ben en zit!
Het is mooi geweest zo en jullie zijn voldaan van jullie mooie en onvergetelijke trip!
xxxxxxx Smeer
hiep, hoi!!! feest en appeltaart!!!
Nog even en ik stap in mijn suzuki met mijn appeltaarten op weg naar Zaandam om jullie met alle andere familie, vrienden en buurtgenoten feestelijk binnen te halen!!
Zie uit naar een big hug van jullie en natuurlijk het feest en de gezelligheid van het weerzien samen met iedereen die zo veel van jjuliie houden.
Jullie zullen nu wel niet meer een internetcafé induiken om de site te lezen maar dat maakt me eigenlijk niks uit…het is een feest om op reis te gaan…maar ook om thuis te komen!!! Tot straks lieve schatten!!
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