Bruut geweld om 1 euro…

Eenmaal terug uit het paradijselijke Shapatou wilden we eigenlijk niet langer in Zhongwei blijven maar meteen door naar Hohhot, de laatste stad voordat we naar Beijing gingen, gelegen in Inner Mongolie. Daar wilden we de graslanden van de afstammelingen van Genghis Khan bezoeken. We kochten een kaartje voor de trein maar dit bleek iets lastiger dan voorheen. Er was maar een loket, niemand die Engels sprak en we hadden het dit keer niet op een briefje mee. Dus in de weer met de rough guide en point it. Dit duurde wat langer maar lukte uiteindelijk prima. We weten onderhand zo’n beetje wat ze willen weten om een kaartje te verkopen: waarheen, hoe laat, welke klasse, welke bedhoogte, dus dat hielp.

Terwijl we in de rij stonden voor een kaartje liet een Chinees het voordringen van een ander deze keer eens niet op zich zitten. Hij stak meteen zijn vuist omhoog en een vechtpartij ontstond. Je begrijpt dat terwijl de twee kemphanen door het halletje dansten en de meeste mensen druk waren met hen te ontwijken, de eerste slimme Chinesen alweer een beter plekje in de rij hadden gescoord.

Het was nog maar vroeg in de ochtend en de trein vertrok pas rond een uur of zes. Dus dat werd lang wachten op het plein voor het station. Gelukkig hadden ze ook overdekte bankjes want de zon kende geen genade. We speelden vele potjes estimation en ontmoeten twee aardige meisjes. Het waren zusjes, ze waren druk aan het studeren maar vonden het veel leuker om vrienden met ons te worden. Ze wilden graag ons oude afgeragde kaarstspel ruilen voor een nieuwe (prima) en daarna hielpen ze ons een verborgen internetcafe te vinden. Dat was veel fijner wachten en de tijd was zo voorbij. Wat een aardige mensen weer.

De treinreis duurde 12 uur en slapen ging voor geen meter. Het was bloedheet en slapen was onmogelijk vanwege de vele discussies en het harde praten over waarom de ventilatoren uit stonden en de ramen niet open mochten.

Goehegotte! (Hohhot)

Hohhot zag er weer uit als een echte grote stad, we waren gewaarschuwd voor vele verkopers van tours buiten het station maar dat viel erg mee. Het eerste hotel uit de rough guide liet ons niet toe omdat we buitenlanders zijn. In rough guide staat uitgelegd dat deze dan blijkbaar geen politievergunning hebben om buitenlanders te laten verblijven. Ook bij het volgende hotel uit de rough guide werd ons de deur gewezen, het hotel daarna was erg duur maar kon ons wel een kamer geven. We probeerden het verderop en vonden uiteindelijk een leuk familie hotel die ons eerst ook bijna de deur wees maar na aanwijzen in het boek en zeggen dat het het als best aanbevolen hotel was ons toch binnenlieten. Pff het was wel even frustrerend om telkens nul op het rakest te krijgen.

Typisch voorbeeld van China, de stad is supersonisch maar de ezel trekt nog steeds de marktkraamIslamitische bouwstijl, je bent duidelijk niet meer in ChinaEen straatbeeld dat je alleen in Mongolie ziet, ronde koepels op de daken, net als de yurtsEen ontzettend knappe man…

In deze stad spreekt men nauwelijks Engels maar gelukkig willen ze je wel heel graag begrijpen. Dus met goed ons best doen lukte het de receptioniste van het hotel goed uit te leggen dat we de volgende dag op eigen houtje met de bus naar de mongolische grasvlaktes bij Zhouhe wilden, daar een nachtje bleven slapen en onze grote tassen daar wilden achterlaten.

Op naar de Mongolische grasvlaktes!
Na lang nadenken wisten we niet of we echt zin hadden de grasvlaktes te bezoeken. Misschien mis je een geweldige ervaring aan de andere kant waren we echt reis en bezichtigmoe en kon het ons allemaal gestolen worden. We dachten dan maar een dagtripje te maken maar nadat we een programma hadden gezien over de grasvlaktes op het enige engelstalige kanaal dat letterlijk eindigde met: als je kan bezoek de grasvlaktes dan, ze zijn prachtig en niet te missen. hmmm toch gewoon maar doen dan.

We hadden de grote tassen achtergelaten en waren klaar om in een echte yurt te slapen. We hadden water, koekjes, appels en een kaartje met in het Chinees hoeveel kaartjes en onze bestemming mee. De busreis ging prima en 2 uur later kwamen we aanrijden op een groot terrein met allemaal yurts. Zodra we uitgestapt waren begonnen de onderhandelingen met de lokale mongolen. Het was hier een stuk kouder dan in de stad. Samen met ons stapte een Chinees fragiel dametje uit (30 jaar) die voor haar werk aan het reizen was en de graslands wel eens wilde zien. Ze sprak een beetje Engels en hielp ons zoveel ze kon met onderhandelen en vertalen.

Terwijl we zaten in een yurt kwamen we, onder toeziend oog van Genghis Khan, de man die het grootste rijk ooit onder zich had, de prijs overeen voor eten, slapen en paardrijden. Hierna gingen we meteen voor een ritje. Eerst nog even naar de WC. Daar aangekomen wilde de dame van de ‘clan’ die meegelopen was om te laten zien waar het was 1 yuan per persoon hebben voor het plassen. Wij zeiden bekijk het maar. We verbleven er tenslotte, dan mag plassen echtwel in de prijs zitten. Terug stonden de paarden al klaar en we namen plaats. De eerste 10 minuten hield onze guide de touwen van alle paarden vast waardoor Martijn constant gesandwiched werd tussen twee paarden en we allemaal op een kluitje liepen. Niks aan dus.

Het Chinese dametje reed ook mee en vertaalde onze klacht. Later zei hij als we terug gaan, anders gaan de paarden uit zichzelf terug. Carolien had we wat ervaring in het zadel maar voor Martijn was dit de eerste keer op een paard. Hij liet ons dus nog niet los en Martijn vond er zo niks aan. Uiteindelijk trok het paard van Carolien zichzelf los en kon ze eindelijk los lopen. Op een gegeven moment kreeg Martijn ook zijn touw zodat hij los kon rijden. Maar ja wat gebeurt er als een paard niet bestuurd wordt… juist dan loopt het terug… dus daar ging Martijn. Hij stopt niet! Dan moet je remmen! Hoe dan?! Na wat uitleg stond hij stil. Carolien liep ook een stuk terug en gaf wat aanwijzingen. Na een stukje rechtdoor ging het paard na even met zijn allen stilstaan toch weer rechtsomkeert en was Martijn weer zoek. Het paard ging alle kanten op en sturen was moeilijk.. Ook was er ondertussen een pijnlijk gevoel op een bepaalde plek tussen de benen ontstaan door alle drafjes die de guide de paarden liet doen.. Al met al was Martijn er klaar mee en na een stuk terug zat de rit erop. Onderweg genoten we wel van het uitzicht over de graslanden.

Bruut geweld om 1 euro

We zaten hierna in een andere yurt die helemaal klaar was voor een overnachting. We vroegen ons af wat we nu zouden doen. We concludeerden dat dat bar weinig was en dat we eigenlijk ook niet echt in de yurt wilden slapen. We hadden nog niet betaald dus gingen naar het Chinese dametje om haar te vragen te helpen dit nieuws naar de gastvrouw te brengen. We zouden gewoon betalen voor het paardrijden, eten en ongemak maar bleven niet slapen. De gastvrouw en heer waren niet blij maar voor 100 yuan gingen ze uiteindelijk akkoord. Onder het eten hoorden we heftige discussies in een yurt in de buurt en we gingen er vanuit dat de gastheer van de gastvrouw op de kop kreeg omdat hij akkoord was gegaan met 100 terwijl zij 120 wilde. Achteraf bleek niets minder waar.

Op een mongolisch paard Links in het blauw loopt het fragiele Chinese dametje.Voorlichting van de Chinese verkeersveiligheid

Na het eten gingen we de yurt uit en wilden we het Chinese dametje vragen hoe laat zij de bus terug zou nemen. Zij was namelijk gewoon even op bezoek. Ze vertelde dat dat om 2 uur was en terwijl we al wegliepen werd Carolien haar aandacht ineens getrokken door verheven stemmen en het dametje dat heel gauw uit beeld verdween, iets te snel om zelf achteruit te lopen. Carolien vertrouwde het niet en liep terug. Daar zag ze het dametje in een yurt zitten, die wenkte haar met wanhopige stem en probeerde haar iets duidelijk te maken. Het was erg lastig te begrijpen met de mongolische gezette dames die aan het schreeuwen waren dat ze iets moest doen. Opeens begreep Carolien het, ze wilde gewoon geld wisselen. Kalmeren hielp niet echt bij de razende dames en Carolien liep met het geld naar Martijn die ondertussen buiten stond te wachten.

Martijn begreep niet helemaal waarom maar pakte zijn portomonnee tevoorschijn. De mongolen wilden dit op een of andere manier niet. Ze wilden het geld van Carolien hebben, die het niet gaf , en wilden niet dat Martijn het wisselde. Toen probeerde het chinese dametje naar buiten te komen. Er volgde wat discussie over en weer en opeens kwam een van de mongoolse dames als een wilde stier op het dametje of en drukte haar bruut terug de yurt in. Het chinese dametje werd geduwt en aan haar haren getrokken en ze gilde het uit. Weer wat discussie volgde over deze behandeling, toen de heer des huizes blijkbaar besloot dat er genoeg gepraat was en het tijd voor actie was. Ze werd weer terug de yurt in gestompt en we wisten niet wat we zagen. We vonden dat dit echt veel te ver ging en aangezien niemand wat deed, de mongolen deden allemaal mee en de toegestroomde nieuwsgierige chinese toeristen keken alleen, konden we dit niet laten gebeuren.

Toen de gastheer de deur dicht probeerde te doen om het vrouwtje op te sluiten, geluid uit te bannen en te kunnen doen wat ie wilde staken we daar een stokje voor. Martijn drukte de deur keihard open waarop de gastheer iets terug deinsde en Carolien riep hen toe dat ze niet goed bij hun hoofd waren (al wijzend naar haar voorhoofd natuurlijk) en dat je zo mensen niet behandeld. Ze haalde het dametje uit de yurt en zei Martijn het geld te pakken, dat deed hij en zo kon het dametje eindelijk het verschuldigde bedrag (dat de mongolen dus niet wilde wisselen) geven, het equivalent aan 1 euro… jaja het ging om 1 euro en dat is zelfs voor de mongolen geen wereldbedrag.

Ze legde uit dat ze (enigszins naief) was gevraagd of ze ook paard wilde rijden en dat ze er vanuit ging dat het gratis was of dat wij betaald hadden voor haar. Dat was beide niet het geval en daarom wilden de mongolen achteraf geld zien. Net zoals wij achteraf hadden betaald. Het probleem was alleen dat ze eerst niet wilde betalen omdat ze dacht dat het gratis of betaald was en daarna geen gepast geld had en de mongolen niet wilde wisselen. Daarbij opgeteld dat wij niet meer wilden blijven slapen wat waarschijnlijk kwaad bloed had gezet, werd zij flink aangepakt. Al met al een agressief volkje en we bergijpen nu waarom vele volkeren ze in de geschiedenisboeken hebben beschreven als barbaren. Toen we later veilig in de bus terug zaten zei de buschauffeur nog dat dat dorp niet goed bekend staat en dat je beter naar het volgende dorp kan gaan.

Hierna liepen we met de dame op naar de weg alwaar we nog een aardige Chinees (en oranjegek, Dinnies Burkkamp!) tegen het lijf liepen. We hadden mazzel want de bus kwam al eerder terug dan verwacht. Terug in Hohhot bedankte het dametje ons en scheidden onze wegen. We waren achteraf blij dat we niet zijn blijven slapen.

203 Reacties to “Bruut geweld om 1 euro…”

  1. Joehoe lieffies

    Tja dan is het voor mij ook de laatste keer om een reactie te plaatsen…..
    Wat een gebeuren allemaal weer daar, helemaal niet leuk om van zuk bruut geweld getuige te zijn maar jullie hebben het helemaal top opgelost.

    Jullie zijn al echte zangtalenten geworden, zijn er ook nog opnames van gemaakt met Mr. Karaoke?

    Het is eigenlijk wel heel erg grappig dat ik nu weet dat jullie gewoon hemelsbreed 3 kilometer verder op vertoeven.
    Poeh hè dat is wel ff anders dan aan de andere kant van de wereld.

    Lieve schatten heel erg bedankt voor de heerlijke verhalen van jullie belevenissen, ik heb daar erg van genoten en was altijd erg blij als er weer nieuwe post was.

    Veel geluk, toedeloe dikke koessies van de Troessie

  2. Apart hoor om nog even na te genieten nadat we jullie al feestelijk ingehaald hebben en jullie alweer twee keer een weekendje langs geweest zijn met filmpjes, belevenissen en toekomstplannen. Martijn alweer de nodige sollicitatiegesprekken achter de rug en Carolien in de startblokken voor de afronding van haar afstudeerproject…kortom: alweer helemaal klaar voor de volgende uitdaging..want het leven mag vooral niet saai zijn(:::!!:::)

    Nogmaals dank voor de bijzondere manier waarop jullie contact met het thuisfront hebben onderhouden, heerlijk dat jullie het zo fantastisch hebben gehad, maar , eerlijk is eerlijk, ik geniet vooral van het feit dat jullie gelukkig en gezond weer in Holland zijn!

    Big Hug Hanneke.

  3. Wat een avontuur!!!!!!!
    Ongelofelijk de reactie om het wisselen van 1 euro!!!
    gelukkig dat jullie daar niet zijn blijven slapen…
    En dat jullie nu gewoon weer lekker in jullie eigen bed kunnen slapen.

    Dikke xxxx

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